Hello and greetings from Bellwald, Switzerland!
I'm dining in a small restaurant that seats about 25 people, and it doubles as my hotel for tonight. I'm writing this blog from the small village that is 1560m above sea level, it's a beautiful place filled with ancient cottages sprinkled across a 400m area with a view back down over the sun-baked valley. It's truly remarkable.
Remarkable. It's a word we use quite regularly in English. Heck, we even have a mountain range with said name. But it's one of the only words I can use to describe a country that, while pricy, is certainly worth every dollar.
There's New Zealand beauty, you know - the mountainous landscapes with sheep that outweight the human population in Godzone. And then there's Switzerland. I have seen some incredible scenery and some fantastically friendly people that have made me forget about any issues I have had here. I recommend it to anyone, that's for sure. And if you live here, you are blessed - and long may those blessings continue.
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Day One: Frankfurt-Grindelwald
I arrived in Switzerland fresh after a health sleep in Frankfurt courtesy of my first air bnb hosts, Jan and Jasmin.
Air BnB is a similar idea to couch surfing, only guests pay a certain rate and are given a shared room, private room or an entire house to themselves depending on the services on offer. I decided to use this service purely because it was reliable and both guests and hosts have to be verified to filter out the creeps. It's also very cheap in comparison to hotels, while hosts can offer insights not often distributed in hostels.
Anyway, back to Jan and Jasmin. The couple in their mid-20s are university students in Frankfurt and are both doing double degrees. Both are specialising in geography, which is how they met.
They've done a few trips together. Brazil, Spain, Portugal, countries with a lot of Latin American flavours, though Jasmin says it was purely as part of their studies. In New Zealand, we call this 'research'.
My first air bnb experience was great. They were warm, welcoming and exactly what social accommodation should be.
From there I had a railwayriffic day. I took trains from Marktplatz, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Zurich, Luzern and Interlaken before I arrived in Grindelwald at 8pm. It was a frantic day, but with the sun setting over the Alps, I knew it was time for me to relax and chill until the next morning.
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Day Two: Grindelwald-Bern
What started as a beautiful morning quickly turned sour in Grindlewald, and it was all over a small load of washing.
As a backpacker I understand one of the pre-requisites is that you have to endure smelly clothes and poor hygiene, but I still don't mind the occasional load of clean washing. So, having spent the previous night putting the clothes in the washing machine, I was hoping to have some clean clothes by the morning.
Instead, I came across a Siemens washing machine that wouldn't play ball. The lights flashed, the spin and rinse cycles wouldn't work, and even more frustrating was that, being a frontloader, you couldn't take your clothes out halfway through the cycle - especially when there's half a machine full of water playing with your clothes.
After five hours I gave in and contacted the host Melanie, who assured me she would sort it. Thankfully, she did and an hour before I left I had my new clothes. Gotta love that Aussie spirit.
But washing aside, Grindlewald was superb. The weather was amazing and the mist cleared around some of the tallest peaks in Europe. I took a train up to Kleine Scheidegg and was spellbound. The views en route to the stop were amazing and there was not one bad view the entire journey.
I had lunch tat a restaurant overlooking Grindlewald, when in Rome right, and it was pretty standard. Cream of vege soup and a ginger ale kept me going for some time - it was that or the two small Swiss chocolate bars I had bought earlier in the day.
I spent the best part of four hours up there taking photos, walking sround (aka not walking around) and generally enjoying being fairly high up and breathing in the fresh mountain air. There were also some nice spots to stand and look out over the valleys and reflect on what an amazing trip I've had so far.
Mote trains followed - this time from Grindlewald to Interlaken and then on to Bern. With no internet access, and the time creeping towards 9.30pm, I finally made contact with host Karin, who gave me such superb directions that I was at her house within 20 minutes.
After a good chat about Bern and my trip, I hit the hay exhausted but with a smile on my face. I had clean clothes to look forward to in the morning.
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Day Three: Bern-Sion
A good eight hours sleep and I was off. It was a little sad leaving Bern. I arrived at Karin's house around 9.50pm the previous night and was gone within 12 hours. Still, that's the way these things work. The host and her family have school to attend, money to make and their lives to attend to. I guess I haven't been used to this, having relaxed with friends in Prague, Berlin, Mechelen and Leuven, but it was ok. I just got on with it.
A quick two-hour cruise around Bern was nice, if not a little frustrating. Having been soaked taking photos of the Bear Enclosure looking towards the old city centre, I bought a tacky umbrella near the bridge. Within twenty minutes of buying the umbrella, the rain stopped for the rest of the day. Couldn't do anything but smile really.
And better still, the music inside this souvenir shop in the Swiss capital was Fat Freddy's Drop, the dub-reggae band from Wellington. The shop owner said she loved the radio station, and found it informative. She hadn't heard of Rwanda before the station, and now she knew it existed because of music from that country. Fascinating insight into Swiss sociology.
Anywho I jumped on to a train and boosted my way to Broc-Village, home of the famous Cailler chocolate factory. Again, a fascinating insight and a superb presentation that illustrated the history of chocolate and the origins of this superb product in Switzerland.
The taste testing part of the trip left me feeling a little chocolate-d out! But having realised you cannot get Cailler chocolate, I strolled down to the outlet shop (shame tourists who pay full price at the factory) and purchased a few bars for the trip home.
From Broc I spent an hour in Montreux, a superb town that overlooks the water and plays hosts to a few vineyards. There's also a large statue of none other than Queen frontman, the late Freddie Mercury. That's what someone told me anyway.
A quick hour then a trip to Sion, where I missed the final bus of the evening by five minutes. The result? A 65$ (NZD) taxi to my next destination. A hefty price to pay.
I arrived at my final AirBnB place a little down but was put at ease by Mathieu and Sarah. I took off my shoes and within an hour I was in bed regretting not looking at the bus timetable earlier in the day.
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Day Four: Sion-Bellwald
And so today, where the classic case of Matiu not checking the information reared its ugly head.
I took a train to Zermatt, a beautiful yet touristy ski village very similar in atmosphere to Queenstown. Expensive, but with beautiful views of the Matterhorn, I hadn't realised the train ride itself would set me back 70$. It turns out the trip isn't covered by my Eurail pass.
I was determined not to let this spoil my trip though, and upon getting to Zermatt I set my sights on taking as many pictures as possible to make up for tap second blowout in the space of a day.
The Matterhorn is 4478m above sea level and is one of the highest peaks in Europe. To put that into context, Jungfrau - considered the top of Europe near Grindelwald, is 4158m above sea level. The Matterhorn's unique pyramid-like peak is so popular it adorns the label, and is the shape of, a chocolate most of you will have tried. Toblerone!
I went from there through to a couple of smaller villages and then arrived in Bellwald via a gondola ride up the mountain. It was my first of the trip and despite enjoying the experience I'm not sure how often I could do that haha. Seems to be the popular way if getting around here.
Here in Bellwald there's a festival called Raclette (Melting of the Cheese), and alongside accordions and dishes of melting cheese was a quartet of long horn players. Superb musicians who are keeping a long held tradition going. I felt like I was back in time for a second!
And so to the present. I'm currently fermenting having enjoyed my first cheese fondue experience. If there was any one meal where I can point to being one that made me put on weight on this trip, it's this one. I've had so much cheese I feel like I could be tested by police and be over the legal limit.
And so I must let this cheese break down somehow before I prepare for my last day in Switzerland tomorrow. I head to Lugarno en route to Milan from Bellwald tomorrow and having looked at the map, it looks like it could be quite some adventure.
So goodbye from Switzerland, and we'll chat in Italia!
Matiu